Sunday, September 14, 2014

Invisible zipper with french seam tutorial

I made pretty good progress this weekend on Daphne. On Friday, I was able to cut and mark all the pattern pieces. Saturday, I assembled the front and back, including all the darts and the invisible zipper. I also decided to give french seams a go. However, I ran into a dilemma: after I put in the zipper how the heck was I supposed to make the remaining part into a  french seam?

I tried finding tutorials online, but I couldn't find any. I found several places that had written instructions on how to do it, but they were just really confusing (especially to beginners, such as myself.) This thread on Pattern Review was the most descriptive I could find, so I basically used that and took pictures as I went to post here for a brief tutorial.

First you sew in your zipper. I used this video tutorial on how to insert an invisible zipper without a zipper foot. Worked fine and the zipper looks great, even better than on my muslin!



Once you've sewn in both sides, sew down about an inch or so below the bottom of the zipper (I basically followed the video tutorial except I didn't stitch the rest of the seam down, only about an inch below.) Also back stitch these seams.


Then I snipped the seam allowances right about where I finished stitching on both sides. I stuck my seam ripper in the snip, so you could see it a little more clearly. (Also, if you made those triangle notches to match up your fabric, make sure you snip them off after you've pinned the seam, otherwise they poke through on the right side. Ask me how I know, haha.)



Now you can fold WRONG sides together and stitch up to your snips for the first step of a french seam.


After, turn RIGHT sides together, press again, and stitch the second step for a french seam.


All done! I still need to tack down the bottom of the zipper to the seam allowance. Hopefully this is helpful to the people who are more visual learners. Enjoy!




1 comment:

  1. Thank you for such a simple and clear explanation! I too searched for a tutorial on how to do this, and there are literally zero! I was sure my project was doomed to my collection of unfinished garments, but you may have just saved these darling pair of shorts I'm cutting my teeth on! Cheers!

    ReplyDelete